Edible Portland Piece on Chinese New Year

I think this piece counts toward my coming out of "retirement": I was asked to write a story about Chinese New Year for Edible Portland. This was the result. You have to scroll to page 42. I hope you enjoy. Story.

Here's a simple recipe for Chinese New Year:

‘LION’S HEAD’ MEATBALL STEW

SERVES 4 AS PART OF A MEAL

1 pound ground pork

2 stalks green onions, finely chopped

2 tablespoons soy sauce

½ teaspoon white pepper

Plain vegetable oil for pan-frying

1 head of Chinese cabbage (about 1 pound)

1 bunch dried cellophane noodles

In a bowl, combine the ground pork, chopped green onions, soy sauce and white pepper. Mix well. Form meatballs using about 3 heaping tablespoons of meat. Brown the meatballs in oil in a pan. You don’t have to cook them all the way through. Place the meatballs in a soup pot or Dutch oven. Once all the meatballs are browned, add enough water to the pot just to cover the meatballs. Bring to a boil and then turn the pot down to medium low and let simmer for about 1 hour, or until the flavor of the broth has developed.

Meanwhile, cut the cabbage leaves into 1 ½-inch (approximately) squares. Add the cabbage to the pot, adding a touch of water if necessary, and let it cook down. The cabbage will shrink in size once tender. About 10 minutes before taking the pot off the stove, add the cellophane noodles to the pot to cook. Taste for seasoning. If necessary, add a touch of salt. Serve as part of a meal with rice.

Hoisin Chicken and Yu-choy

It's been a while since my last post. I gave birth to my son on May 5 and it's been busy to say the least. I am fortunate that my mother lives with us, so we have enjoyed her cooking on those days (which have been many) when I just can't manage to juggle putting dinner on the table. The first order of business for any Chinese matriarch is to make a postpartum pot of chicken soup to help the new mom with breastfeeding. So I came home from the hospital to my mom's rich, simmering pot of chicken soup that had been flavored with fresh ginger and shiitake mushrooms. It's a soup that she's made countless times and that I've made for myself, too, but I never tire of it. It's always soothing and the leftovers make a utilitarian base for noodle soup or refrigerator soup or mian ger tang (flour dumpling soup).

One of the ways that we stretch ingredients is to break down a whole chicken, which is cheaper to buy. Typically, the breast is saved for stir-fries and the rest is cut into parts for chicken soup. For the dish above, it's fine to use thighs -- also less expensive than breast. I combined chunks of chicken with yu-choy, soy sauce and a dash of hoisin. Quick and easy.

HOISIN CHICKEN WITH YU-CHOY
SERVES 4

½ pound chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized chunks
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 bunch yu-choy, about ½ pound
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
Dash of water, as needed

In a medium bowl, combine the chicken chunks with 1 tablespoon soy sauce and cornstarch. Mix well and set aside.

Rinse the yu-choy. Trim about an inch off the bottom end of the stalks, which is tough to chew. Cut the yu-choy into 2-inch segments. The leaves will shrink significantly once cooked, so if they are a little larger, it’s ok.

Heat wok over medium-high heat. Add the 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and let heat through for about 30 seconds. Gently add the chicken and quickly start stirring to separate the chunks and so that the pieces don’t stick. Stir-fry the chicken pieces until just cooked through, about 3 minutes, depending on the size of the chicken chunks. Add the yu-choy and stir to combine. Once the yu-choy has wilted, add the 2 tablespoons of soy sauce and the hoisin. Stir to combine. If it looks a little dry, add a touch of water to thin out the sauce.

Serve with rice and other dishes as part of a meal.

My Nutella

One of my favorite condiments is red bean paste. Whether it's in a steamed or baked bun, a fried sesame ball, or simply on a slice of white bread, red bean paste takes me back to my childhood. I didn't have peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. I had red bean paste on Wonder bread.

My tastes are a more sophisticated now and I prefer these sesame flatbreads called shao bing, which are often served with warm soy milk and Chinese doughnuts (you-tiao) at breakfast. Freshly made is best, but these frozen ones aren't bad and they're easy: Just put them in the toaster.

Then split in half and spread some red bean paste on it. The sesame seeds add a warm nuttiness to the combination of sweet, mashed red beans on toasted bread. Great snack!

Tomato Eggs

I love this dish for its simplicity and its utilitarian nature that carries it through breakfast, lunch or dinner. It's even better when local tomatoes are actually in season, but a hothouse tomato will do in a pinch. And, like a custard base that can achieve several outcomes, this combination of ingredients (eggs, diced tomatoes, soy sauce, green onions) can be a stir-fry or it can be transformed into tomato egg drop soup or a steamed custardy soup that resembles chawan mushi.

TOMATO EGG

SERVES 3-4 FAMILY STYLE

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as needed

1 stalk green onion, finely chopped

6 large eggs, beaten

1/8 teaspoon white pepper, optional

1 cup diced fresh tomatoes

2 tablespoons soy sauce

Splash of water, if needed

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil, optional

In a wok or skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. When the oil is hot, add the green onions and fry for about 15-20 seconds. Add the beaten eggs and cook, gently scrambling the eggs. Add the white pepper, if using. Once the eggs are cooked but still tender, push them to side of the wok where it's not as hot. Add about a teaspoon of oil to the center of the wok. Let heat for a few seconds. Add the diced tomatoes and stir-fry the tomatoes until they are soft and have released their juices, about 1 minute. Add the soy sauce and stir. Combine the eggs with the sauce. If it looks too dry, add just a splash of water. Gently stir-fry for about 1 minute. Drizzle with sesame oil, if using, and serve with rice and other dishes as part of a family-style dinner.

Note: Of course, if you like it spicy, you can add some hot sauce when you add the soy sauce.

Something from Nothing

It is a constant refrain: There’s nothing in the fridge.

Perhaps. But a cook can create something from nothing. When I say “cook,” I don’t mean “professional chef.” That implies a level of restaurant refinement that most home cooks have neither the need nor the skill to achieve. Besides, few of us have the time or the battery of specialty tools required to make restaurant food.

Knowing how to cook certainly requires a base knowledge about ingredients and techniques. But in the context of a home kitchen, knowing how to cook means being open to the possibilities and not being bound by recipes. This is when understanding cooking principles is important.

For example, my husband once wanted to make pot roast, but there were a couple of ingredients that he didn’t have. He started to agonize about what to do and threatened to make a special trip to the store at the eleventh hour for items that, in my opinion, weren’t significant enough to warrant the effort. My question to him: What is a pot roast? I proceeded to explain that a pot roast is essentially a braise and that based on one of his previous experiences preparing a recipe from Molly Stevens’ “All About Braising,” he already had everything he needed in order to make a delicious pot roast. Instead of relying on the seasoning packet that he had intended on using, my husband was able to create flavor through technique: searing the meat, sautéing the savory vegetables, enriching the sauce with red wine and fresh herbs, letting the constant heat of the oven do the work.

On days when there is “nothing” in the refrigerator, I take it as a challenge to create something. How do I do it? From the perspective of a Chinese kitchen, it starts with some basic ingredients: soy sauce, hot sauce, vinegar, wine, ginger, green onions, garlic, sugar, peanut or vegetable oil, sesame oil, white pepper, rice, noodles, dried shiitake mushrooms. There’s something to cover the hot, sour, salty, sweet and umami (savory) flavors. A few other items I usually have on hand: Chinese sausage, Chinese (or napa) cabbage, carrots, celery, baby bok choy and yu-choy.

With these ingredients on hand, the possibilities are many.

If I’m in a position to have to make something from nothing, it usually means that I’ve had a long day and I didn’t have time to stop at the store, or it’s just one of those frugal weeks. We are a meat-eating family, so when there’s nothing, it probably means there’s no significant piece of protein that’s ready to use. While I don’t cook Chinese for every meal every day, it’s what I rely on for a something-from-nothing situation.

There are two issues you have to consider: What combination of the ingredients on hand will build the most flavor and how best to allocate your ingredients in order to create enough quantity to feed your family and maybe even have some leftovers. Say I opened the fridge and had the following staples: Chinese cabbage, Chinese sausage, carrots, celery, eggs, green onions, tomato. I could make one dish or I could make three. I’d go for three and make a pot of rice, which would yield leftovers for my husband’s lunch the next day. The options:

• Cabbage with Chinese Sausage: Sliced Chinese cabbage and sausage stir-fried with soy sauce, maybe a drizzle of sesame oil at the end.
• Celery and Carrot Stir-Fry: Julienned carrots and celery with soy, red pepper flakes or a jalapeno (whatever is on hand), touch of rice vinegar.
• Tomato Egg: Scrambled eggs with chopped green onions in a sauce of tomatoes and soy. OR, instead of the stir-fry, the tomato and eggs can become a tomato egg drop soup (sauté the tomatoes until soft, add soy sauce, add water, bring to boil, add beaten eggs, stir, adjust seasoning).

Don’t fret about not having a recipe. Just remember the basic technique behind a stir-fry:

• Cut all your ingredients first. Vegetables should be in pieces that are of similar size so they cook evenly. Meats are thinly sliced or cut into small chunks so that they will cook quickly.
• Heat pan or wok. Add oil.
• If you are cooking meat, do so now. Remove from the pan or wok. Scrape the bottom of the pan to remove any bits. Then, add a little more oil and let it heat through before adding savory items.
• Add savory items: If you are using ginger, garlic, green onions and/or chilies, add them now to the hot oil. This will help release the flavors.
• Add vegetables and stir-fry. Add meat back in. Stir.
• Add sauce: soy and a little water, if needed. Depending on the flavor profile, you can add vinegar, bean sauce, hot sauce, white pepper, sugar, etc.
• Finish, if needed, with a drizzle of sesame oil.